However, I doubt that any of you would deny the benefit of having a design wall but the reality is that many of us do not have the room or inclination to build one. So here's just one way of making a design wall that can hopefully be adapted to many of your spaces. My intention in creating a design wall was to have one that was permanently installed on the walls of my sewing room....I designed the room specifically so I could have this. But in theory, this method can be used to create portable walls or smaller versions of the ones that you see here.
So on with the show!
First off, determine how much room you have for a design wall. I was trying to make mine as large as possible for maximum benefit, but honestly even the tiniest design wall would help most of us! I specifically arranged the furniture in my sewing room so that I would have one "long" windowless wall on which to install the design wall. It is important to determine how high you would like the wall to be and how low to the ground (are you short? even if you have 12' ceilings, that is probably not a very practical height... is it difficult for you to bend down? then you probably don't want your wall to go all the way to the floor or moldings.)
I believe that this is really a two person project if you are doing it on the scale that I have done mine. Obviously if you are making a small design wall you may be able to manage on your own...but it is still helpful to have more than one set of hands for this project. So find a helpful friend and rope them into making this with you. Lucky for me, I have quite a handy and helpful husband. :)
The base of the design wall is made with sound board. Sound board can easily be found in your local hardware store in 4' x 8' sheets. For the space I had, we needed two boards that cost around $11 a piece. Not too bad! We chose sound board for a few reasons. First, it is relatively light weight which makes it easier to work with than drywall board or some other type of wall material. Second, it is made of a material that allows me to put pins in easily if I chose to do so. (for instance I pin the directions for a quilt on the wall with the pieces so that it is all in one place). And third, it is sound deadening. While that may not matter to some, it is helpful for us to lessen the noise coming from the sewing room while perhaps a little babe might be sleeping or I feel inclined to sew in the middle of the night with movies on.
The cover for the sound board can be a material like cotton batting or flannel or curtain lining fabric. I personally chose the batting option because one prepackaged queen sized batting covered my two boards perfectly.
I don't have pictures of this first step (sorry my husband was too quick!), but you need to cut the board to size. You may be able to have your hardware store do this for you if you do not have the necessary tools at home. Once again, I am a very lucky lady with a very handy husband who did have the correct tools for this. It only took one simple cut for each piece for us. We decided to make the sound board 7' x 4' because we only have 8' ceilings and part of the wall space has been taken up with moldings at the bottom and top of the wall. You may also need to make small cut outs for electrical fixtures such as outlets or light switches. (*my husband tells me that the sound board cuts very much like drywall...you can score it on either side with a utility blade and snap off the cut!*)
Now, onto the pictures!! Trust me there are plenty.
Cut your batting slightly larger than the sound board, giving yourself enough room to wrap the batting around the back of the board. We will be using basic upholstery techniques, so have a staple gun ready. (Remember for my boards I was able to use a prepackaged batting and simply cut it in half. lovely!)
You don't need to be worried about it being completely flat (a more difficult task with batting at times than other covering choices) but it should be reasonably flat laid out on the floor. Place your sound board, right side down, on the batting, centering it over the batting.
Pull the batting taught but do not stretch it, and staple ONE long edge in place from end to end.
This next step is one of the times where it is particularly useful to have two people working on this project. Lift the board up from the stapled edge. Working from the top center, smooth your covering flat but not stretched over the sound board. The batting easily attaches itself to the sound board so no adhesive is necessary, but feel free to add that at this point if you feel your wall will need it.
As you reach the bottom, you will want to tuck the covering underneath the board so that it is viewable from the back of the board.
Carefully lay the sound board back down on the ground, confident that the batting is laying smoothly. Begin to staple the other long side from end to end.
A closeup of the back...don't worry if it's not pretty. No one will see it! We are stapling approximately every 4" or so.
CAUTION! Tiny helpers may become distraught at the sound of the staple gun!
They may vocalize this more loudly than the noise of the staple gun.
They may cover their ears to block out the noise.
Ultimately, tiny helpers will need to be comforted and removed to another, more quiet, room.
Continue on with your project, stapling the two short ends in place as well.
When working on the corners, feel free to cut away any bulk or extra fabric/batting that is in the way.
Smooth the remaining fabric in place and continue to staple until the whole piece is completely in place.
At this point, you can now work on any special cutouts you may have in the design wall.
Move the design walls to the location where they will be installed.
Without the noise of the staple gun, tiny helpers may feel that they are quite useful once again.
In order to attach the design wall to the wall of your room, it is best to find the studs of the wall and use those as an anchor for the boards. You don't want them falling down and ripping apart your walls! Here the studs are marked with blue painters' tape.
Most likely two sets of hands are needed again to install the boards on the wall. Measure in increments where you would like to attach your wall, being sure to say on one of the studs. We chose to screw the design wall in rather than nail it because that will make it easier to remove at a later date with out destroying the design wall if you find you need to do that. We used 3 screws across the top of each panel, 2 across the bottom of each, and 1 on the far side of each panel approximately halfway down the wall.
Take advantage of any "help" that you can get to attach these to the wall.
Be sure to line up the boards around your outlet cutouts.
When all is up in place, step back and enjoy your handiwork! You will be pleased beyond measure to have such a wall in your sewing space.
My design wall measures 7' x 8' and happens to blend pretty seamlessly with my current wall color, making it very unobtrusive despite its large size.
Now that you are done, put that wall to good use! I immediately started putting blocks on the wall for the quilt I wanted to work on next! So fun!
No pins, no nothing! The blocks just stick to the board and will not fall unless you remove them.
And now you may be able to finish some of those quilts that you have been dreading because the layout! It's fun to lay out a quilt on the wall. ;)